Day 9 - Kolari - Pello - Overtornea

Friday 30th July 2010
123.65 km covered in 5hr 24
22.8kmph average
47.8kmph maximum
odometer reads 785 km of trip total

Awake, arise, another day beckons, sunny fingers creep through the flimsy curtains and tickle the eyelids open. Clearing my sticky throat and lift my heavy head, drag feet through to the warm breakfast room, there's some serious sandwich making to be done, and not a moment to waste. I do remember a time, at least I think it existed, when sandwiches were not even a minor feature in my life, in fact I rarely bought bread at university. And yet here I stand, body morphed into functional cycling machine, all extraneous muscles erased other than the thigh, and the only fuel I know my machine wants is bread, bread and more bread. And none of this continental open top rubbish, that is not going to last a minute in the bulging pannier bag. Call me the Earl of Sandwich and whack another bit of bread atop my pan european salami and tasteless pre sliced cheese, I'm living on the edge of an empty motorway and I'm ready to roll.
Back on the E8, the Finnish 'motorway' we are courteously passed most slowly by other vehicular beasts every hour or so, the ubiquitous Mr Caravan and Ms Caravanette crawl past us leaving a rather unneccesary 12ft berth, cheerfully tooting their approval at our epic and impressive mission. Either that or they are trying to beep a warning that we shouldn't be on the 'motorway'. The most danger we encounter is the occasional but nevertheless fearsome reindeer swaying drunkenly around on the highway ahead, seemingly weighed down by the world's largest antlers. The age old adage of 'they are more scared of you, than you are of them' springs to mind, but as we edge closer, Rudolph and co just stop and stare. Slowing right down we bide our time and then sprint past when they're not looking! I say sprint, but of course, we weigh more than them with our saddlebags and they let us win.
Hazel's quest to purchase the world's tackiest t shirt continues as we browse endless tourist shops boasting arctic scenes on fruit of the loom apparel. She is surprisingly surprised that the equivalent of a child size age 5 to 6 doesnt fit on her 5.11 frame and we press on empty handed. Leaving the E8 we stop in for our daily coffee and ten cakes at 'Granni' cafe, much to our Philippa 'granny gear' Colby's delight. I should mention at this juncture that it is a very hot and sunny day, and you would think we would all be delighted. Alas I am suffering from a strange cold (unverified by Dr Learner who will only suggest I have a sore throat from over exertion during the previous days singing peloton) and cannot cope with dramatic change in climate. Flinging myself upon the ground I admit to shouting 'go away mr sun, go away'. Which later on in our tale you will find I regret. Like true Brits, on the first day of sunshine we optimistically strip our cycle shoes of their protective gaffer tape waterproofing, unable to imagine that it will ever rain again.
At Pello, we cross the river, which forms a natural border between Finland and Sweden. I would like to say we were instantly struck by the dramatic difference in climate and terrain but we were mostly struck by a vision in the road up ahead which we were at first unable to comprehend. Moving swiftly but smoothly and of a pinkish colour in human form, it was neither reindeer nor touring cyclist, but flailing around like a madman in the road, heading straight toward us at unnatural speed. It was of course, a half naked old man, wearing skis with wheels, using his ski poles to propel him the wrong way down the road. This proved to be quite a familiar scene as we progressed, and cars passed these beings with as much courtesy and respect as they did us regular cyclists. Welcome to Sweden.
Smooth rolling roads ensued, and before we knew it were out of the arctic circle, glorious pure white light still beating down on us. The photographing and documentation stepped up a gear in these perfect conditions, and Hazel began to document us, documenting the landscape and each other, in a wonderful self referential nature, photos of photos become more interesting than the photo itself. Or perhaps its all, quite an inadequate way of recording what was in fact, a wonderful experience to remain in our heads and memories. The photo of me clambering up an ants nest to try and get a perfect forest photo, is definitely more interesting than my results! Long day over, after 175 miles in two days, we 'treated' ourselves to dinner at our campsite restaurant, ordering unknown meat items within our price range. We, of course, ended up being served meat sandwiches. Hot sandwiches, so some variation there, but well within the boundaries of acceptable food stuffs. We retire to bed in Swedish almostsunset. The sun drops low, but the night does not fall, just hangs, in the air, waiting.

go away mr sun

natures

documenting

documenting atop an ants nest

on the edge of the arctic circle

photographs of photographs

Day 8 Enontekiö/Hetta to Kolari

Apologies for delay of blogs, it would seem internet is a rareity in Finnish hotels and Swedish campsites.......

So back tracking a week

29th July

158.28km in 5hours 58min

Averaging 26.4 kmph, maxing out at 56.3kmph

Lovely rolling Finnish hills on our faverite E8

Awake in Finland, buffet all you can eat breakfast again. Highlight of this morning's were the Gingerbread biscuits which found happy new home in our biscuit tin (having now polished off the travel sweets I had insisted on for the flight).

We elected not to follow the Bible(official mannual of the Eurovelo7 route) satying in Finland rather than meandering through Sweden. Which meant our longest day in glorious sunshine following the E8 (imagine a country lane crossed with a motor way and minimal traffic).

Zooming down, grabbing 50cent coffee and doughnuts on route.

Now out of Norway the numbers of fellow cycle tourers on the road has thinned out. Quite a relief as now we can stop racing with everyone. Most frustrating was the sweet little Swedish man we met our first day from Alta who we cycled a few km with before speeding away from him. In a reinterpretation of the Tortoise and the Hare he kept reappearing at our stops as we got further north in Norway!

But back to the Finish E8 where the day was proving too long and hot for Alice despite the reviving roadside picnic sandwiches. Thankfully we came across the equivalent of a service station for Fishermen and she was able to get some Pepsi Max. (Who we are approaching for sponsorship).

Revived we sweep into Kolari which seems to consist of out of town shopping complexes with no obvious centre.

With no camping signs apparent we follow the first signs for a hotel. A winding course along a gravel path leads us to a guest house. The hostess up on the balcony smiking a fag, causally shrugs and waddles down the stairs (portly is normally an adjective I'd only use for a man but for her an exception). With limited Finnish and English she attempts to extract an extortionate amount of Euros from us for bed for the night andbreakfast?.. Possibly(that shrug again!).

We edge out and flee on our bikes (fully loaded touring bikes aren't the fastest get away vechicles but safely escaped her waddle), she shouts lower and lower prices at us as we leave.

A little up the road we check into a motel most suprised and grateful for out of season custom.

Over the road to the local burgar joint for a hot sandwich!

Field hospital update

Medicines so far consumed on the journey:

Diclofenac 950mg
Metochlopramide 10mg
Ibuprofen 1.2g
Paracetamol 4g
Chlorpheniramine 32mg
Lansoprazole 15mg
1 x sleeping draught
Brown and blue puffs
Germaline and sudocreme
Numerous dressings
3 different insect repellants

last two days - alta - enotekio

Day 7 Kautokeino - Enotekio - Across the Borderlands

Distance covered - 84km
Time in saddle - 3hr27min
average speed - 24.2kmph
max speed- 54.3
Odometer - 503.1km

After what seemed like an endless "night" of lying awake prostrate, listening to Hazel scratching her mosquito bites, or sores might be a better description. The arctic "dawn" today was marked by the sky actually darkening a little as a fresh stock of clouds rolled in from the nearby mountains, ready to unleash a steady supply of drizzle for our day in the saddle. Eyes peeled open, we trotted off to the restaurant, giving a cheery wave to our favourite receptionist, who we named Florence, for no other reason than that she had lovely curly ginger hair. She did seem to be the sole worker in the whole Hotel, wee Florence, and no machine. Though incidentally we did find out she goes to Goldsmiths during termtime. This is a great tip for students looking for a summer job, head for the touristic arctic circle, everything is so bloody expensive that the wages are great. And as Florence herself put it  "there is nothing here to spend money on, so I save it all for termtime"
Sounds like she is having a blast up here in Kautokeino, mind you she probably gets a free breakfast. Tummys and bags duly filled with no less than 5 sandwiches each, we stumble back to our quarters to try and erase the unpleasant odour of instant noodles and insect repellant which Hazel is completely smothered in. Perhaps a case of shutting the door after the horse has bolted, but we invest in some local "Jungle Oil" which should keep the little blighters at bay. Feeling unwell from the "toxins" Hazel gets some more rest and we fail to get on our bikes before 1pm, but at least we are well fed. We wave goodbye to Florence and wobble off into the drizzle, informed that no, it will not be flat all the way to Finland.
After being warned of hills ahead, we are pleasantly surprised to find that what Florence considers challenging terrain is a breeze for us serial Tour de Norwayers. We assume our new favourite riding style....what we like to call the singing peloton. Taking in turns to lead and cut the wind, the other two riders draft in the slipstream, saving up to 30% energy, or so Hazel informs us. Ive no idea of the science, being a creative type, but i do enjoy scooting along at a cracking pace, racing down hills fast enough to carry you up the next one! The singing peloton is so called because one can settle into a comfortable pace and be relaxed enough to carry a tune (ahem) or at least Philippa can carry a tune and Hazel and I bark/enunciate along.
Songs are chosen on a purely random basis of what is in your head at that time. Now consider that we have no ipods, stereos etc, the only music we have heard over the last week has been snatches drifting out from cars and hostel corridors. So my choice of the day was "Land of make believe" by Bucks Fizz. Interestingly, I dont recall that Ive ever listened to that song in my life, but now I just cant shift it. Wikipedia it, theres a great if inaccurate description of it online! Hazel opts for Welsh favourites old Dame Shirley Bassey and Sir Lord Tom Jones. Philippa treats us to a most charming and almost note perfect "Blue Moon"  and before we know it we have covered 40km! Theres another delightful Norwegian picnic spot with obligatory useless map and toilet (hole in ground in hut, but still toilet roll - those efficient Scandinavians!), where Hazel chooses to eat her sandwich in the road, to "avoid" the mosquitoes. Oh dear.
There is no photos, nothing to report either, on the scenery as it was EXACTLY THE SAME as yesterday. 200km of marsh, river, scrub and mosquitoes. Oh but thumbs up for the road surface, lovely and smooth!
At long last we reach our first border! Keen to spend the 1600 Norwegian Kroner we still have about our person, we are at first disappointed that border control building is not a nice little coffee shop, but still, I take a few photos of "the border" which is a somewhat pathetic wooden fence. We stand for a while in a layby with a huge puddle, which was place in between the Norway and Finland signs. We were therefore, in a literal no mans land. Quite exciting for somebody like me, if you are obsessed with where one thing ends and another begins. We muse for a while about which countrys law we would be tried under if we were to commit a crime in this NoLand, and conclude it would fall under International Law. We refrain from murdering each other to find out, and as a dodgy looking guy pulls up near us looking for a drug deal, we pedal on. Mum, thats a joke by the way.
We continue at our heady pace....averaging 15mph feels pretty good on a fully loaded tourer! And as theres absolutely no traffic lights, junctions or other life forms, we have no reason to stop, time and miles fly by in a blur of non stop popular musical hits.
Then we find a reason to stop, obviously its coffee time! First outlet in Finland and in we go, Euros (at last! we can afford to eat!) in sweaty palms. Consume, urinate, continue.
Peloton, pedal pedal,go go, my inner monolugue sings Toe! Toe! (toe first, not heel, Im learning new cycling technique!)
And we are there.
Its an hour later in Finland, for no particular reason, other than that they decided it is. Enontekio, also known as Hetta and Enodak (yes, go ahead, give your town three different names!)
Hotel straight out of the 60s, sandwiches for dinner, Hazel flat out on a cocktail of antihistamines and sleepytime tablets. Welcome to Suomi.

Tuesday 27th July Alta to Kautokeino

127km covered
Cycling time 6hr24
19.7kmph average speed
57.8kmph max speed
Odometer 419km
Weather - overcast, rainy patches, slight headwind
Terrain - long climb out of Alta (another 8% incline) through gorge with numerous waterfalls (scenic highlight of the day), second half of journey through rolling hills up on moutain plateau - finally some decent cycling terrain!!!

Aiming for an early start after our first night in the tent, we set off around 7am with a big day ahead of us. Spirits were high - we'd had our first rest day, slept fairly well (Phil and Ali anyway), the weather forecast was in our favour and we had sponge cake for breakfast - what more could three girls ask for?!?! A few things apparently....

1. Rain set in quickly and was on and off for most of the day - costume changes exceeded 15 over the course of the day.

2. We soon realised the foolishness of our choice of breakfast food, finding we had to stop for sandwiches after less than 15km to refuel...won't be trying that again!!! (We bought museli in Kautokeino, despite staying in a hotel that night should we find ourselves in similar circumstances again...). We did have a lovely little coffee and cake stop at the only "town" on the way...consisting of the cafe, a souvenir shop and a few huts for guests to sleep in...interesting what constitutes a town in Norway....

3. Those mosquitoes mentioned earlier just wouldn't give up!!! Our route followed the Alta river, and the large areas of water combined with higher temperatures meant the bugs were out in force!!! Poor Hazel.... whilst Ali and Phil had a few obligatory red spots, Hazel erupted into red welts covering her legs, as well as a nasty bite on her eyelid, which seemed uncontrollable despite the best efforts of Field Hospital. By the time we arrived in Kautokeino, a town of 2000 inhabitants, it was clear that a campsite would not be an option and we booked into the only hotel in town (breakfast included of course!!!). Unfotunately there was little to be done - even after anti-histimines, anti-inflammatories and the various creams we're carrying, the "burning legs" just wouldn't be tamed. This led to a sleepless night for both Ali and Hazel sleeping on the closely positioned twin beds, as Hazel spent most of the night thrashing about wrapped in a wet towel in a desperate attempt to ease the itching, whilst Phil managed to pass out on the foldout bed for almost 10hrs of much needed sleep!!

We did attempt to blog that night, but after a dinner of two-minute noodles in the hotel room, and the obligatory endless tea and coffee (luckily with a kettle in out room), we were past the point of tired - the early start and high kms had taken their toll, and it was lights out before 9pm!

Monday 26th July Honningsvag to Alta aboard the Hurtigruten!

Km covered - lots, but on boat and coach!

Having already completed the Alta - Nordkapp section of our challenge during the Northbound cycle, we decided to save our legs and not waste time re-cycling old ground going south back to our starting point of Alta.
So we hitched a ride on the good ship Hurtigruten, a lovely vessel which doubles both as a cruise ship around Scandinavia for elderly American tourists in tracksuits, and as a local ferry which gets folk from town to town a lot quicker than on twisty mountain roads!

Just our luck.... there's an all you can eat buffet for breakfast! Hustling our way through the oldies we tucked into a smorgasbord of delights for the entire 3 hours of our ferry ride from Honningsvag to Hammerfest. It should be noted at this point that 90% of all our meals on the trip so far have been sandwiches, constructed during breakfast buffets and smuggled into our panniers, wrapped in numerous napkins! The original reason this blog was called "sandwiches to sicily" was because Philippa and Alice met whilst delivering sandwiches on bikes together at Darwins Deli. It was planned that after leaving Darwins, sandwiches would stop being such a feature of everyday life. Perhaps exotic local cuisines would be sampled! But no, why spend money at restaurants when you can get filled bread packages for the next two days at breakfast for free! Lovely little waitresses turn a blind eye! At first we kidded ourselves that they didnt know our game......

Anyway so we progressed speedily through blue seas to our destination or Hammerfest, a charming little town (or very large conurbation by Northern Norways standards) on a nearby headland, approximately halfway back to Alta. After so much isolation in bleak mountainscape it was quite pleasant to be somewhere with humans, and even a brand new cinema, ahem, sorry, KULTURSENTER!

We boarded a bus and after doing the classic trick of falling asleep, hitting head on window, wake up, repeatedly for 3 hours, we were back in Alta! As it was glorious sunshine we braved a campsite, and got introduced to the local wildlife, a delightful swarm of mosquitoes who decided they liked us so much they would follow us across Lapland for the next few days........

first 4 days on the map

Day 4 Honningsvag to Nordkapp to Honningsvag

Sunday 25th July
65.61km covered in 3hrs33 (max speed 67.0kmph average 18.4kmph)
Weather: Glorious Sunshine, no wind!
Terrain: Steep and winding

Day 1 of Lapland's infamous 10day summer! Start the toughest ride yet (hindered with back ache and knee pain).
Most challenging ascents yet, up hill all the way to the most northerly point of "civilisation" in the world. Greeted by hideous visiting centre, a la Land's end. But are allowed in for free by nice toll boy.
Sandwiches greedily consumed overlooking the bluest sea we'd ever seen.

Refueled we begin the fastest and most twisting descents of our lives (so far!). All aches and pains forgotten as we hit 40mph with joy! Surrounded by the most breathtaking views.

Day 3 Repvag to Honningsvag

Saturday 24th July
55.14km covered in 3hr02 (max speed 46.2kmph, average 18.1kmph)
Weather: Windier still. Dusting of showers
Terrain:Up down, and submarine 9%

Any sense of time is gone in the land of the midnight sun. We awake (was there an alarm), tounge furred and head very fuzzy from beer, wine, and was it schnapps?
Three cups of tea and we are away to Honningsvag. The forecast promised sun but instead overcast. It seems pretty dry and calm. So leggings but no waterprrofs. Up the hill, look at the sky to the north- looming dark clouds.... waterproofs on and gaffer trouser clips. Sliver shoes looking pro.
Wheels spinning, hangover slipping away. It's only 55k, it's nothing.
Wind starts up, no tail wind today just blustering across. I'm grateful for the crash barriers hugging the side of the road. The right side of the road. Incidentially was any one else unaware Norway isn't in the EU?
The hills are fun- I'm aiming for the polka dot jersey. Reindeers a plenty, with bells on. They race alongside us.
There are three tunnels awaited on this section, on the way to the first we wiggle around an inlet wind screaming down towards us. Leaning fully in. I hear Alice wobble off behind me but she doesn't fall- crash barrier.
Into the tunnel. It is awesome! 7 k long, 3.5k down, 3.5k up at 9%. No speed limit. But we're too cautious (I've already melted my brake pads down) so we slow down, brakes on- arms getting numb. Just imagine a road bike at full pelt!
The climb starts, lung busting, ever up......... and then the light, and now blown sideways again by the wind.
Take shelter eat our bread and butter (surplus from last night's soup course)
Two more tunnels, gusting inlets inbetween. Out of the third tunnel and Hello Honningswag!
Shall we go to Nordkapp tonight? No the hang over and solitary meal have taken their toll, to bed.