Monday 4 October 2010

Day 72 Friday 1st October Foggia to Melfi by Phil

58km in 2hr55
20kmph average
41kmph max
odometer 5664

Four star breakfast doesn't quite bring the same joy in Italy and the girls have to be content with vibrantly coloured scrambled eggs. Back on the road in search of one of two bike shops in Foggia, we soon find ourselves lost in the confusing system of oneway streets. Pausing at an intersection to pull out the map, we are infinitely amused to see the second bikeshop (NOT the one we were supposedly en route for!) on the opposite corner.
European cycling lexicon obtained in Rostock gets put to work and i explain to the crowd of old men who have gathered at the sight of the fully loaded tourers, that Hazel's back spoke has broken. The men are straight onto it, each seeming to have a role in the repair of the wheel- removing tyre, cassette, delfating, inflating, fetching tools, fitting the new spoke and trueing the wheel. It's all over in a mere 15minutes.
Impressed by our tale, we are presented with lovely flourescent cycling club stickers to add to the collection on our bikes, and our attempts to pay for the parts or repair are declined. Much to our delight Bici2 stocks yellow bar tape, which we purchase with excitement and look forward to putting on at the earliest opportunity.
We have managed to end up somehow on the road road out of town, and set off onto a wonderful stretch of dual carriageway with perfect hard shoulder. Perhaps mistakenly, we fly past the only supermarket on the edge of town convinced we will soon come to another.... it seems that on return for good road we have given up frequent service stations! We consume the remanents of the kitchen cupboard in short roadside breaks, and finally arrive at AreaStop where we enjoy a hearty pasta lunch. The girls are incredulous at the sight of our fellow diners indulging in beer and wine with lunch- surely they're going to drive off when they're finished?!? Ali seems to have picked up a tummy bug and for the first time this trip is unable to stomach her coffee after lunch.
Slowly back onto the road, we did ourselves climbing up and up over 30km to the town of Melfi. Such was the gradual and consistent climb that I found myself listening to the following conversation from the squabbling children behind....
H: ....it's not good for you to cycle like that... You should go faster...
A: We're on a hill....
H: But why are you going so slowly?
A: We're climbing!
H: But you shouldn't go so slowly!
A: Hazel, we're going up a hill!!! Colby?!
P: Yes, Hazel we are going up a hill....
The look of puzzled bewilderment did not leave Hazel's face for the rest of our cycle or the rest of the evening, as her confused vestibular system failed to recognise the 400m climb in altitude...
We arrive in Melfi in good time and find the hotel Due Pini on the outskirts of town. In search of an early dinner we find little on offer in town but enjoy our passegiata and restock at supermarket. We return to the hotel for dinner only to find we can't eat until 7, but manage to hold out and enjoy a lovely 3 course meal before heading to bed at what could still be considered a reasonable hour by my books!!!

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