Sunday 12 September 2010

Day 51 - Friday 10th September - Cesky Krumlov to Linz by Hazel


76.26km Covered     in 3hrs25 Average Speed 22.2
Max Speed 62.2
Odometer reads 4142.0


"So let's Draw back the Curtains, and let the Sunshine in" Julia Gillard

The morning in South Bohemia is lovely sunshine, which bodes well as we had been warned about cold conditions.
Colby returns the kettle*(1) to the UNESCO world heritage site reception before we dine on our breakfast.  The paneuropean theme of cold cuts, cheese, ultra hard boiled eggs with cereal on the side continues.  There is a toaster which makes a change.*(2)
Bags loaded we roll out of the cobbles and up the mountains into the Bohemian Forest that forms a natural geographical border between  Ceska Republika and Österreich.  I have finally convinced the girls of the benefits of careful road-map consideration route finding, versus religious bike route following.  Today we are supposed to be meandering on some graveled goat trail before crossing over.  Thankfully we opt for a road heading due south striaght into Linz.  It's obviously a winner as we are amidst a classic car tour so enjoy a lovely, riverside, slow inclining, mountainous, forest lined, silky tarmac stretch; whilst being overtaken by a fleet of old Astons, Jags, Ferraris and Citroens...  We are moving at some pace with everyone's legs feeling strong for the lighter series of days and before we know it we are at the border.
Alice and Phillipa don the cameras to snap the remmants of iron curtain, I can't see any but find Jake the Slow Worm.  He and I become great friends in our ten minutes together, and it is with some sadness that we say our ahoys.  Unfortunately there wasn't sufficient time, nor materials, to fix up a shelter for him atop my pannier bags.*(3)

And now Austria...  Suddenly the quaint, beautiful, bohemia of Czech fades into brilliant green fields, bursting blue sky and snow topped peaks.  It feels like we are cycling through a butter advert.  The cows have cow bells- so it's also like being on Ski Sunday. 

Obligatory roadside picnic... Check.  Then it's the last 15km into town.  I had deliberately chosen this route with the hope of a valley descent then flat cycle into town.  There was remarks that my topographical map skills could be way off and actually we would be cycling along a needle fine, steep ridge. 
Luckily it is a descent, and what a descent.  We drop some 800m into town and it's the quickest 10km ever-a no-pedalling 50-60kmph "cruise" into town straight to the Tourist Information.
Hotel Locomotive- complete with illuminations, is booked.

Into the hotel, Colby is feeling a little tired so Alice and I go to fetch dinner and supplies.  Asian maybe?
This weekend is some food and drink festival in Linz (?Octoberfest, there are Lederhose aplenty...).  But alas there is no Asian food to be found.   We trawl the street, and side streets, lot's of bratwurst stands, and peculiar small bars in shop fronts, but no Asian affairs.  I resist Alice's McDo suggestion and after much consideration and deliberation we return wearily with pizza.  There is the excitement of a glass coke bottle vending machine.  Dinner then sleep- big breakfast to prepare for tomorrow!


*(1)
There were explicit instructions not to use open flames (e.g. Colby Camping Stove) for brews and the like.  As this is heritage we go along with it- as opposed to our normal hotel/pension modus operandi

*(2)
A toaster for guests to use unsupervised- not sure if UNESCO is aware of this

*(3)
Since my front pannier racks broke I have been rear loaded.  My bicycle set up looks like a heavily loaded donkey and handles like a surly Blackpool beach one to boot.  See day 37 Oranienburg to Berlin footnote

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