Thursday 9 September 2010

Thursday 9th September - Day 50 - Ceske Budojovice to Cesky Krumlov

Distance covered ca 35km

Unsure as to whether I'm still viral or suffering from some sort of altitude sickness, I continue to find the constant grinding uphill exhausting and am struggling to chug along in my normal happy manner. I therefore make a controversial request that we have a super short day and stop over in the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Cesky Krumlov.  I do this in part due to not feeling at full strength and partly because I can't imagine my father would ever forgive me if i cycled straight through a world heritage site without stopping! It would be like cycling straight through the whole of Dorset and not even taking a peek at Durdle Door. So a proper cycle touring day it is. Up hill and down dale, we see the most interesting furry critter try and run himself over under my wheels, whom we can only assume was some sort of stoat or weasel. Much cooing abounds followed shortly by a coke break before our final descent. We enjoy watching an entire coach party of Americans puffing their way up the hill. There's much technical clothing, matching bikes and absolutely no luggage to be seen. If I'm honest I'm today a little jealous of them. What I wouldn't give to arrive at my destination and find a coach had transported all of my bags into a four star hotel on my behalf! Colby comments that the other Colbys (regulars on the coach trip cycling scene) would not enjoy the 12% incline.
We screech down the long long hill, brakes pulled on hard and still not slowing we eventually arrive in Cesky Krumlov after opting for major highway into town rather than off road forest route. Hazel and I manage eventually to source accommodation without Compass Colby's assistance and we drop off bags at our lovely castle apartment. Thats right, an apartment, in the world heritage site, for 20 quid each. Bargain. Dr Learner informs us that we must eat some red meat in order to build more red blood cells to assist with our altitude training. We therefore are forced to enjoy some rather fine steaks at Hotel Dvorak and even manage to charm the grumpy waiter into a laugh and smile, despite paying him half in Kroner and half in Euros. At one point I did get out the Swedish Kroner but there is a line.
By the time we've finished afternoon coffee and blogging its once again time for dinner, and since we´ve a long day ahead tomorrow we are not allowed to cut carbs. Logically since we´ve had steak for lunch, we opt for a vegetarian restaurant, and boy are we in for a treat. We have a choice such items not  previously seen on our travels through smalltown mainland Europe such as Houmous! Bulgar Wheat! and all sorts of other delights. We are seated right next to the river and inhale our new types of carbohydrate with wanton abandon, bulgar wheat, rice, chick peas, flat bread, and more. Down the hatch it goes. Our charming host, whose name I hope was David, is much amused by our frequent outbursts of honking and overenthusiasm about exotic carbs, despite the fact we seem to be driving away the rest of the clientele. Of course as ever we enter conversation about our journey and he, like everyone else, thinks we are crazy. But in recognition he does give us free dumpling dessert and tea. He also has in the kitchen, a squash which was larger than a pig, which he says will last a week! So a big thumbs up to the Restaurant Laibon in Cesky Krumlov, do stop by if you´re ever cycling past.

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